Forget staying in a cramped hotel room. Take advantage of the city’s abundance of short-term lets. Apartments in central Rome go for as low as 600 euros a week (compared with 200 euros a night in a hotel). Try domusconnect.com.
Skip the taxis and take advantage of the city’s public transit (ATAC) service. A one-week unlimited-use pass–good for all buses and subways–costs 12.40 euros and is available at vending machines. Or rent a bicycle.
Stay away from restaurants offering “tourist menus”; if you can see a major site from your table, it will cost you double. Opt instead for the trattoria, or family-style restaurants, on the tiny side streets in the city center.
Don’t fight the crowds to watch the pope on a screen in St. Peter’s Square. Go to one of the city’s 900 smaller churches. Most post multilanguage signs announcing the Holy Week schedule.
